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Project: 'Troy's Pinball' -  Arcade Sequel Build (5)

Work Log Page 1 - Page 2 - Page 3 . Page 4 - Page 5 - Page 6

Here is the entire thing completely disassembled, the panels were cleaned up and all the masked edges were tamped, so it's ready to spray.



Below shows what the acrylic panels look like after the first coat of black vinyl color.



Three cans later and the front side of each panel was sufficiently black.  The backs of each panel were masked and then sprayed with blue vinyl color behind the vinyl decals.



Here it is with the all the masking removed, the shiny smooth blue letters look killer against the finely textured black surface.



Sapphire rocks and so does their window outline, vinyl sign material makes a great mask when used with automotive vinyl color, I didn't have color seep under the mask anywhere.



Time to install the Sapphire decal I had made, I lined it up and taped it along the top edge, then removed the backing paper and used the blue card to smooth it down.



It looks good, but I still have a little more to do on the back sides of the panels before they can be installed.



I cut the roll of light diffusing film into strips and black electrical taped them onto the inside panels over the SMD LED strips location, then I brushed all of the taped edges with liquid electrical tape to make sure they stay put.  A piece of light diffusing film was also cut to fit over the Sapphire "S", it will also be getting some glow treatment.



Both side panels are finished and ready for installation... I still can't believe how nice they turned out.



It took a lot of patience and cans of vinyl color to get all the panels looking right, but at $9 a can I wasn't so worried about the back, if it looks a little splotchy it's because it is.  I vinyl colored the duct to the PSU black and screwed it onto the now ready for install back panel.



Front panel unmasked and ready to install.



I am putting the back box together first, get those pieces together and out of the way so I can focus on the table part of the build... not far now.



The back box is assembled, now to put the side panels onto the table starting with the back.  I also bought a seven outlet surge protector for the inside of the cabinet to replace of the six outlet adapter type I had originally planned to use.



Below shows where the surge protector will be installed, I will use the heavy duty double stick tape to hold it in place.  The biggest selling point for this surge bar vs. what I was going to use... it has a 10 foot cord.



I installed both of the side panels and then finished with the front.  Once it was all together I couldn't resist plugging it in to check out the lighting.



Here is a look at the front, it looks good and I had no idea at this point, but I had the legs installed and started putting the front together when I realized there was a problem.



The plunger is too long and sits too high, as such it is directly in the way of the TV, the plunger will need to be relocated lower on the panel... below is a freshly cut new front panel.



I used four screws and large washers to hold the old front panel securely on top of the new one, it is now just a nicely painted hole saw template.



Fast forward and the new panel is cut, masked off and ready for vinyl color.



I took the redo as an opportunity to fix a few things I wasn't happy with, the top panel in the picture below is now scrap and is only shown for comparison.  I cleaned up the plunger hole and put the buttons below the plunger back into two separate holes, I also made the left side lower button hole smaller and fixed the edges of the speaker holes.



Next up are the legs, I could have just bolt them on the way they were but I want to make sure that the legs won't scratch up my machine over time.  Below shows what I came up with...



Here are the four table legs, all felt up and ready to go.  I installed the legs, it looked so cool I decided to set the 40" HDTV into the cabinet, and that looked so cool I decided to start putting hardware onto the front panel starting with the plunger.



Mounting the legs was no easy feat, dipping the bolt threads in petroleum jelly finally helped them go in easier.  With all four legs installed it is actually starting to look like something...



I bought a few more parts for the pinball machine, two 6" USB extension cables five blue and five black SPST NO buttons, a 1.5" square blue LED pushbutton, a twenty LED automotive dome light, a metal plunger back plate and four rubber feet.



I rivet together a couple pieces of aluminum angle and attached the 20 LED dome light to it at the level of the side Sapphire logo, below it is the acrylic mount I made for the Pinball Wizard PCB.



I had to modify the metal plunger back plate and a few pieces of acrylic to mount the plunger.  I also installed the side buttons and the front speakers.



Below is a shot of the front, I installed SMD LED strips to the underside edge of the table all the way around.



Here is a 3/4 view, ignore the wiring hanging out the bottom, it will all be neatened up closer to the finish.



Next up, another LED test video...



The front blue LED button and LED jumbo push button are wired to power.



I didn't like that when standing and looking at the machine the LED strips I installed on the table underside were visible, moving the strips back an inch did the trick.



In a darkened room the blue glow under the machine is pretty intense...



The black tubular thing below the blue square push button is an arcade push button wrench, it only cost a couple bucks and for getting buttons fit tight it's worth every penny.



In the following picture I have all of my buttons and plunger wired to the Pinball Wizard/Mot-Ion controller, I also installed four push buttons into the bottom of the machine and wired up the square blue push button.  Two 120mm fans were installed in front of the freshly meshed bottom vent/access hole



The TV controls were mounted on the inside edge of the front access/vent hole, beside the TV hand controls sits the IR remote receiver/power LED PCB.



Here is a bottom up shot of the TV controls and remote control PCB.



I cut a length of adhesive backed felt to line the back brace where the 16" monitor face will rest, the area under the sub woofer and any piece of aluminum angle that makes contact with the sub woofer were also lined with felt to prevent unwanted vibration.



The sub woofer and power supply are installed...



Motherboard, video cards and lighting are wired and installed.  There are three separate lighting elements that make up the Sapphire window effect, two are shown below and one still has to be wired, each has it's own on/off switch on the back of the machine.



Here is a nice shot of the window...



Here's why two-way mirror was used, the video cards reflection in the picture below appears to go on forever.



I turned on all of the blue SMD LED strips to make sure they would not interfere with or over power the window.



The blue LED strips and window lighting work really well together...



It's starting to fill up with hardware, other than the 40" TV the table part is fully assembled and ready for some wire management.



I almost forgot to show that the Sapphire window is a mirror when the backlighting is off...



Troy's Pinball Build Log Page 6