6" LCD Mod Page 3...
Below are the materials used in this part of the mod, almost all of the parts shown can be had at
any ACE Hardware store.
Top to bottom: 1/8"x1/2" 8ft. Alum-Flat -
$5.49USD, Shelf Mounting Strip - $1.39USD, Friction Lid Support - $2.99USD
Clockwise from Left: 2" Aluminum Handle, Recycled
Brackets, Plastic Spacers, Zip Tie, Washers, Lock Nuts, Bolts, Aluminum
Screw Posts - Around $10.00USD
I used two friction lid supports as the slide bars for my LCD, they are
the right length and work good. Take them both apart (you will need to
drill through the hinged ends to get them off) because all we need are the bars and
the plastic spacers.
Below are the parts used and order of assembly for the slide bars, you will
need to make two of them (mirrored). The rightmost metal piece in the
picture is actually from the helping hands magnifier
I used earlier to solder the power wires for the LCD, the holes in it had to be drilled
out a little to make it work.
To attach everything to the slide bar I used two 1/4" aluminum screw
Below is a front on shot of the completed side
tracks, in it you can see how
your two finished slide bars should look.
The side tracks measure 6 3/8" long and
are made up of - 1/8"x1/2" Steelworks Alum-Flat, the slide bar
assembly and lastly the shelf
mounting strip. I cut the pieces of Alum-Flat and shelf mounting strip to size and filed the
cut edges smooth, you can
see in the picture below where I drilled the holes for the bolts and lock nuts,
I put three washers stacked inside the track on the rear bolt so that the slide
bar could move more freely inside. The tracks sit flush against
the inside front edge of the case and flush with the top of the next bay device below
it, position your tracks then mark and drill your holes into the case.
Bolt it all together using a lock nut on the end, you might need a washer or
spacer beneath the nut to cinch things up a bit, but do not over tighten.
The shelf mounting strip has rectangular holes evenly spaced running the
entirety of its length, by looking at the picture below you should have no
problem figuring it all out.
Now that the tracks and slide bars are finished
and installed it's time to mod a 5.25" bay cover, it will not only help
make things look stealthed when closed but will add needed structural support to
the screen assembly. I first cut down the sides of the 5.25" blank,
then I angled the edges and filed it all smooth. I lined everything up for
a test fit - LCD, rails and bay cover, then marked and drilled a hole in each
I also checked to make sure that the screw
heads from the handle would not interfere with the screen bottom sitting flush
with the bay cover. I bought the 2"
aluminum handle for fifty cents from All
Electronics Corp (they rock) and it matches the case very well. Since
it fit without problems sitting perfectly centered on the bay cover I drilled
two holes and screwed it down.
I used an angled flat head bolt, spacer and
lock nut to hold the bay cover to the slide bars and LCD rails. It is
important to bend the edges of the bay cover a little so that it can slide in
easier, I wound up having to file mine down a little on the sides because it was
just too tight. The following picture, though blurry, tells the story.
It goes in and comes out pretty smooth, but the
screen looks a little rough around the edges, and there is also the scratch I
If you decide to do this mod make sure you also
order either the headrest or visor mounting kit with your LCD screen, it costs
around $8 USD and is worth every penny. I will be using the visor mount
kit for mine, but either will work.
I had initially dremeled and filed an aluminum
faceplate for my LCD out of the scrap from my side window cutout (shown on the
left) and though it looks pretty good by itself when I placed it on top of the
screen my every cutting imperfection showed... bad. I ended up ditching
the aluminum faceplate idea and cutting all but the top edge off of the interior
piece of the visor mount kit and then filed the outer edges to fit... much
I used a thin double sided tape to hold the
plastic screen face down onto the face of the LCD and it looks a lot better than
the one I had hand cut, at the bottom it slides into the small gap between the
bay cover and screen. The picture below is not an entirely fair
representation of the screen in action, at 640x480 the text in the box is
entirely legible, the picture does show the screens ability to perform as a
secondary desktop, sweet.
And a gratuitous picture showing the LCD
running off my TV tuner card and functioning as a TV... which is awesome for
Nascar races, when a killer crash happens two clicks sends the TV image to my
primary 21" monitor, super sweet.
I can even fine tune the system bios from the
6" LCD, which rocks.
This mod is sweet, if you understand the
above instruction set you owe it to yourself to build one. I am not trying
to sell anyone on using the same 6" TFT LCD that I use, but I think you'll
have a hard time finding anything that looks as nice or works as well for the
price. Here are the key points from the Parts
Express 6" LCD description...
*Back light: Built-in CCFL - Some LCD modules I've
seen elsewhere do not include a backlight unit.
*Screen format: 4:3 - 4:3 resolution is the same as
that of an NTSC television which is equal to a 640x480 computer resolution.
*Dot format: 320 W x 234 H - The resolution that
looks best on the Parts Express 6" LCD is 640x480, which is about what you
get when you double the dot format of 320x234.
*Viewing angle: Top, 65º/Bottom, 45º/ Left to Right,
45º - View angle is one of the most important things to look for, what good
is a case mounted monitor if you can only see it when looking directly straight
*Operating voltage: DC 9V - 24V / *Power consumption:
1A. - "Also included is an auto switch circuitry that turns the monitor
on when a video signal is present."... It's almost like they were made for
modding and computer use.
I have had a lot of
people email me asking how the 6" LCD screen connects to the computer, it
connects by RCA composite video and the plug end from the LCD is female. The LCD
plugs into your video card or motherboards on-board video - if it has S-video or
RCA out - and is recognized by the PC as an NTSC TV.
If your video card doesn't have an RCA
composite or an S-video out then it doesn't feature NTSC TV-Out. If it does
you might also need an S-video
to RCA composite adapter - if one was not included with the video card and
also a male
to male RCA composite adapter if your card has an RCA out. If your card has
no S-vid or RCA but has a spare VGA port (or only a single VGA out) you could
use a VGA
to TV S-Video RCA AV Adapter Cable.
- Guide written by ARTbyTROY